Chocolate fermentation and its microbiome (coming to desserts near you)

 The Guardian brings us the latest breakthrough in chocolate science:

Scientists claim to have unlocked ‘secret sauce’ needed for fine chocolate
Results of studying cocoa bean fermentation in Colombia could pave way to manipulate flavour, say researchers  by Nicola Davis 

"Whether you enjoy an aromatic bar with notes of caramel or something less fancy, chocolate can have many tastes. Now researchers say they have shed fresh light on a key ingredient that could open the door to new flavours.

They claim to have unpicked how and why the bacteria and fungi involved in the fermentation of cocoa beans influence the flavour of chocolate.

“We understand now what microbes we need and what they’re doing. And I think that opens up the opportunity … to be a lot more directed [about] how we make our chocolate in terms of its flavour,” said Prof David Salt, co-author of the work from the University of Nottingham.

Writing in the journal Nature Microbiology, the team report how they studied beans fermented at cocoa farms in three different regions of Colombia – Santander, Huila and Antioquia.

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"The team then used genetic sequencing to identify the microbes involved in cocoa bean fermentation from multiple sites in Colombia and beyond, explore the genes they contained, and hence identify the flavour substances they could produce during fermentation.

As a result, the researchers identified nine microbes that together were predicted to produce the notes of a fine flavour cocoa. They then introduced this community to sterile cocoa beans, and allowed them to ferment.

The upshot, said Salt, was a cocoa with floral, fruity and citrus notes and a recognisable cocoa flavour but with reduced astringency and bitterness."